Savouring Mano: Haarlem’s Rising Star in Fine Dining

Getting a reservation at Mano felt like winning a culinary lottery

04/10/2024
mano restaurant

Introduction: Nestled by the picturesque Spaarne River in Haarlem, Mano isn't just a restaurant—it's a love letter to culinary precision, intimacy, and flavour. While its understated exterior might suggest otherwise, step inside, and you're transported into a sanctuary where Japanese precision meets European heart. I had the pleasure of dining there two months ago for my anniversary, and I haven’t stopped talking about it since.

Booking Challenges and First Impressions:

Getting a reservation at Mano felt like winning a culinary lottery. With its compact, intimate setting—ideal for romantic dinners or intimate celebrations—bookings fly off the shelf faster than you can say “tasting menu”. After trying (and failing), I left my name in the waiting list, and a few days later a delightful call from one of their staff offering a last-minute table set the tone for what was to be a spectacular evening.

Upon arrival, the restaurant’s calm, elegant atmosphere embraced us with its soft colour palettes, crisp white table linen and calming decor. Positioned next to the Spaarne, the view alone could seduce you into staying. Yet, it was the warmth of the staff and their remarkable attention to detail that sealed the deal.

Amuse Bouche: A Technical Masterclass

The evening kicked off with a spectacular series of amuse-bouches. There was a playful beef sandwich, an inventive dim sum, a refined take on the classic Dutch bitterbal, and an option platter of oysters—each piece perfectly constructed to highlight different textures & flavours. This level of technical ability so early in the meal was commendable. Paired with a glass of champagne, it was the perfect start.

You could already sense the ethos of Mano: Japanese techniques blended with European sensibilities. From the dim sum’s delicate bite to the oyster’s briny freshness, each morsel was thoughtfully crafted to awaken the palate. For me, this was a clear signal that we were in for something special.

The Menu: A Symphony in Seven Courses

The 7-course tasting menu began, and with it, dishes that felt more like a symphony than a meal. Each course—layered with flavours, contrasting textures, and surprising pairings—showcased the creativity and technical prowess of the kitchen. A small, unexpected gesture—a warm brioche bun brought to the table, accompanied by incredibly rich butter and delicate flakes of salt—immediately set the tone for an unforgettable night.

The steak tartare was a revelation. Fresh, vibrant, and masterfully seasoned, the tartare combined crunchy, creamy, and umami-rich elements that danced across the palate. It’s not just the freshness that stood out, but the nuanced layers: crispy chili, picked onions, chives, and the sharp tang of ponzu—all perfectly balanced.

Then came the langoustine—perfectly cooked, its sweetness enhanced by crunchy, sweet, sour, and salty accompaniments. The burnt butter sauce, with its earthy, spicy, and toasted flavours, added depth to the dish and brought out the richness of the seafood. This dish was, hands down, one of the most perfectly balanced plates I've ever tasted.

The scallop was next, seared to perfection with caramelised edges that added depth to its sweet, briny flavour. There’s something magical about a scallop done right—its creamy texture juxtaposed against the slight crunch of a perfect sear. It was simple, elegant, and divine.

Red Mullet was a revelation—its natural sweetness balanced by baby red peppers so tender and sweet, they could only be found in fine dining restaurants. I just wished it has some crunch to it.

The lamb neck, tender and buttery, was a masterclass in plating. As visually stunning as it was delicious, it arrived like a painter’s palette—colours carefully chosen, and flavours that came together harmoniously on the plate. The basil and aubergine accompaniment brought freshness and earthiness to balance the richness of the lamb.

The Dutch beef was a showstopper, served with a single potato pavé—a 1,000-layer masterpiece of crunchy, creamy potato perfection. Any home cook who’s tried to replicate this knows it takes hours to master, but when done right, it’s like a mille-feuille for savoury lovers. Here, it was flawless, complementing the perfectly cooked beef and fresh basil garnish, and earthy mushroom tartlette.

One thing I would note: while the menu was near-perfect, I couldn’t help but think how fitting it would be to see octopus on the menu. With Mano’s Japanese techniques and Spanish-inspired name, it seems like the ideal ingredient to create something special. The tender, smoky richness of octopus, paired with their creative flavour combinations, would surely be a hit. Hopefully, it's something we’ll see in the future.

Dessert: The Perfect End

I’m not usually one for desserts—often finding them too sweet—but Mano’s offering was the perfect finish. The dessert featured a mix of peach, raspberry, and elderflower, bold in flavour yet refreshingly light. It was the ideal palate cleanser after a rich meal, perfectly portioned to leave you satisfied but not overly full.

## Chefs’ Duo: Kevin and Daniël

The magic behind the scenes at Mano can be credited to the dynamic partnership between chefs Kevin Kion and Daniël Damen. Lifelong friends, their synergy is evident in every plate. Kevin and Daniël, who’ve known each other since childhood, bring complementary skills to the kitchen: Kevin’s eye for stunning, intricate visuals and Daniël’s pursuit of bold, unique flavours. Together with their talented team, they ensure a relaxing evening with dishes that leave an long lasting impression. Their inspiration comes not only from the finest products and their travels but also from pushing each other to ever greater culinary heights.

Beverage Pairing: Champagne and Reds

To toast our special occasion, we brought a bottle of champagne—a lovely option that Mano accommodates with grace (corkage fees apply). As the meal progressed, we let the team pair wines with the meat courses, and the results were exceptional. The reds selected for the lamb and beef were rich and complex, perfectly complementing the depth of the dishes.

Though we skipped the Wagyu A4 extra course this time (saving it for our next visit), I could tell from the description that this would be something to look forward to.

One thing I would note: while the wine list is excellent, I’d love to see it expanded to include more “heavy hitters,” particularly by the glass, using a Coravin system to bring out their best. This would give an already stellar experience that extra flourish for wine lovers.

Portion Sizes and Satisfaction:

Despite the tasting menu’s elegant, multi-course approach, we left Mano not just satisfied, but thoroughly full. For those worried that a tasting menu means leaving hungry, fear not—each course was perfectly portioned, ensuring that even the hungriest among us are well-fed. After nearly three hours of dining, we were happily sated but never rushed. Mano knows how to pace a meal.

The Verdict:

Mano is the type of restaurant that’s worth the detour to Haarlem. It’s a place where innovation meets heart, where every course feels like a revelation, and where the experience transcends the food itself. Yes, the restaurant is small, and yes, booking is a challenge, but isn’t that the case with all the best-kept secrets?

In short, whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply seeking a night of gastronomic delight, Mano delivers in spades. If you were ever in doubt, don’t be—this is one restaurant that’s on the cusp of Michelin stardom, and it’s only a matter of time before they get the recognition they so richly deserve.

Pro Tips:

  1. Book Early: With limited seating, reservations fill up quickly. Call ahead and don’t hesitate to join the waitlist.
  2. Indulge in the Extras: Go the extra mile and taste the extras, I went for oysters & caviar this time.
  3. Trust the Pairings: Their wine list is as thoughtful as the menu, so let go and enjoy the journey.
  4. Save Room for the Winter Menu: As the seasons change, so does the menu. I can’t wait to return and taste what Mano has in store for the colder months.

Cost Breakdown:

For the 7-course menu, the price was €120 per person, with wine pairings costing €67 extra, factoring in any extras your heart might desire and you’re looking at a premium dining experience that, while not cheap, is well worth every euro.

So next time you’re planning a special night out, make your way to Mano and prepare for an evening of gastronomic indulgence that will leave you counting the days until your return.


We hope you enjoyed this glimpse into the vibrant life of Haarlem. For more stories, tips, and local insights, keep exploring HaarlemToday. Don’t forget to share your favorite articles with friends and join the conversation on our social media channels. Until next time, keep discovering the unique flavors and experiences that make our city special.

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Filipe Rigueiro is a Senior Product Analyst at AND Digital with over 8 years of experience in product development and data strategy, holding a Post Graduate degree in Clinical Biology and qualifications in Data Science. Originally from Portugal, he now lives in Haarlem after time in London and also serves as CPO for a startup focused on English vocabulary learning. In his free time, he enjoys playing golf, dining out, and collecting fine wines, drawing from his past as a sommelier in Michelin-starred restaurants.
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